I’ve always wanted to be one of those fancy people that go on week-long health retreats, the ones where they force you to workout and eat healthy food and you come home looking and feeling amazing.
Our trip to Praiano, on the Amalfi Coast was sort of like that. Minus the personal trainer and healthy food. Our Hotel, the Locanda Degli Dei had spectacular views, literally breathtaking thanks to the (no exaggeration here) 1200 steps you had to climb to reach it from sea level.
Daniel and I were super excited to visit Praiano, this beautiful part of the world is where we spent our honeymoon and holds fond memories sipping cocktails and lazy beach days overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Bliss.
Our return didn’t disappoint but it was a very different experience this time around. Not only because we have a miniature third wheel but also because our location was difficult to get to and definitely a bad choice for a family with a small baby. Dan and I have shed about 4kg between thanks to those freaking stairs.
Praiano is 10km up the coast from Positano. During the summer months Positano is overrun with tourists which slightly detracts from its beauty. Praiano is less well known and quieter than its neighbour and in my opinion, holds more authentic charm.
Amalfi Coast holidays force you to slow down. Everyone here is on Italian time and in no rush to do anything or get anywhere, so if you don’t go with the flow you might find the experience frustrating. Heading to the beach on a roasting hot morning our bus driver decided to pull over for a cigarette mid-route, one of his mates popped over for a chat and ten minutes later we were on our way again.
We loved spending time with Aussie friends who happened to be in the area and enjoying the coastal lifestyle. Relaxing on the beach in Italy is very different to Australia. Sections of the beach are owned by cafes and restaurants so you have to pay for the luxury of hanging out there. There are public sections too but you have to share the small space with hundreds of other people ughhh. So we paid because we’re snobs.
Day trips from Praiano
Sorrento is 1.5 hours on the bus. This gorgeous city is full of cobble stoned alleys and handmade boutiques. It’s more family friendly than the Amalfi Coast. We spent our day here eating.
We started with coffee and cake at Monna Lisa, where the owner was kind enough to entertain Eleanor while we ate. Next we snaked on Dutch style hot chips at Queen’s Chips, followed by dinner at Meating before heading back to Praiano.
Positano is 20 minutes from Praiano on the bus. A very scary, packed bus ride where I had to hold on squished next to the windscreen with Eleanor strapped to me.
Once off the bus our day started with a Lemon Granita, a quick walk down to the beach, followed by lunch at Max. Max is amazing, you should definitely visit for amazing pasta and seafood. It looks way to highbrow to bring a baby but they were so sweet with Eleanor.
After lunch we headed back to Praiano to do our favourite stair walk.
Amalfi is 30 minutes by ferry from Positano. We love this town and wished we stayed here this time. It’s much flatter than Positano and Praiano so would be more suitable for families and less mobile travellers.
We visited a couple of local delis for supplies and had a picnic by the water, followed by the best Gelato I have tasted in my life.
Our tourist activities are more skewed toward eating and less about culture. We should work on that.